Looping Lorne

Regular readers will know I like to explore the marvelous coasts of western Scotland. Islands, beaches, cliffs and an airy feeling of freedom as I just cruise along. Fish and sunshine are a bonus, but not that hard to find on the right day!

My plan was to loop round the Firth of Lorne, launching from Taynuilt and through the Falls of Lora. I wanted to explore south towards the Garvellachs before crossing to Mull for the night. Day 2 was a cruise along Mull followed by a visit to Morvern and then back to Taynuilt.

Taynuilt was a little on the misty side as my longliner slipped into the waters of Loch Etive, but I was optimistic it would burn off in the morning sunshine.

With a large tide I was careful to head through the Falls of Lora at slack water, before turning south to head towards Kerrera.

I stopped off for an hour or so off Ganavan but only picked up a succession of dogfish. Perhaps not the best start!

Next up were some fresh mackerel off the southern end of Bach Island, just off Kerrera.

…before wasting a few drifts on the pinnacles of Bogha Nuadh. Nothing apart from a few smallish coalies 🙁 The standing waves were impressive though, and I wouldn’t want to be here with wind against tide!

Belnahua

I’d a few more unremarkable (aka unsuccessful) drifts as I worked down Lorne until I diverted over to the tiny, uninhabited island of Belnahua.

I knew of the island beforehand, but a hat-tip to Donny Wilcox for reminding me that it’s worth a visit. Simultaneously sad and beautiful, but I’m glad I landed.

Anyone interested can read the history of Belhahua here. Hard to believe 150 people once lived on the island!

Islands of the Sea

Dodging the worst of the tide runs, I headed west towards the Garvellachs. Much favoured by hermits in years gone by, and they still look lonely and magnificent today.

I had a slow trundle down this chain of islands, pulling in a mackerel here or there but little else. I’d have loved to set foot ashore, but none of the options appealed enough for me to risk my boat!

Mull now beckoned, and I turned my bow towards Malcolm’s Point, some 10 or 11 miles distant. Along the way I’d to rescue my hat, ripped off in the slipstream(!) of my Orkney speedboat :-). At least it floats…

Mull Pollack

Once over on Mull I set to work on the pollack population, much more successfully than on the Garvellachs.

Fish after fish came to the boat, mainly smallish 2-3lb specimens, nicely bronzed from life in the kelp. Leadheads loaded with firetail worms or shad baits did most of the damage.

The best was around 5lb 8oz but they were all good fun to catch in shallow water and lightish gear.

I’d given up any thought of camping ashore by this point. It takes time to secure the boat and set up a tent, and this is an exposed coast. Instead, I headed about 5 miles along the shore past Rubha nam Fear and into Port Ohirnie and dropped anchor. Dusk was falling as I set up my sleeping bag and chugged a ready meal in the relative security of this small bay. Rocked by a small swell, and tired from a long day, I soon fell asleep.

Next morning I tidied away the mats and sleeping bag and set myself up for the day with my usual coffee and bacon roll.

Cliff Hugging

I hauled anchor and headed northeast along an awesome piece of coast. Flat wave cut platforms backed by cliffs rising 600 feet or more.

My photos cannot do this deserted coast justice, with it’s many caves and crevices. I doubt if many anglers ever visit, given it is miles from the nearest road and protected by trackless terrain.

Unfortunately, for the most part the seabed itself remained obstinately flat and uninteresting. I did pick up small pollack and coalfish close in (and mackerel, of course), but quality was non-existent.

Honestly, I wasn’t too bothered as I meandered along. Herds of wild goats and a few sea eagles added interest, but the shoreline itself is the main attraction.

Finally, towards the mouth of Loch Spelve, the landscape became less feral. I headed ashore at Port nan Crullach for an extended coffee break and general mooch around.

Morvern Mackerel

I’d planned to have a fish at Lady’s Rock in the middle of the Sound, but time was against me now. Too many lazy coffee breaks probably! Instead, I headed directly across towards the Morvern shoreline, arriving just at the point where I’d turned my kayak round a few weeks earlier.

Mackerel were teeming along this steep shoreline, presumably trapping bait fish along the cliffs.

I picked up more small pollack and coalfish in between the mackerel shoals. Definitely fun fishing rather than specimen hunting though!

It was windless and hot, although not too sunny, and I idled along with a few casts here and there. A sea eagle gave me the once over as it glided along the hillside, and seals popped up every now and again.

I think this steep, stony beach represents the last hope for a kayaker on the Morvern coast. You could possibly squeeze a small tent in, but most of the ground slopes rather uncomfortably!

From Rudha an Ridire I turned for home, heading towards the southern tip of Lismore. En route I made a brief sonar survey of the luckless trawler George A West, a victim of the Liath Sgeir. It seemed too small to merit much attention and I left it to crumble in peace. Probably wise, given my shrinking time window to cross the Falls of Lora before the tide kicked in again!

In the end I hit it more or less just right, and cruised through the Falls with only a mild buffeting from the eddies.

An Etive Finale

Safely back in Loch Etive, I anchored and dropped a couple of baits whilst I sorted myself out. It was low water, so no rush to head back just yet. Small spurdogs promptly harassed my mackerel strip and found myself working harder than planned. Two rods quickly became one, and even then it was hard to focus on getting my gear sorted out.

Eventually I completed my chores and hauled my last spurdog, followed by the anchor. Just ten minutes later I grounded gently on the gravel alongside Kelly’s pier.

Share this: